Showing posts with label Culture. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Culture. Show all posts

When in Rome...


Well...I'm back. After trips like this and so much time away from my blog, it's hard to really find the words to sum things up. I should start by saying that I am so blessed and grateful to have such amazing friends that would fly across oceans to come visit me and spend their holidays here. Thanksgiving at home is typically my favorite holiday because of the delicious food and great company, so I knew it would be hard to miss out on. However, thanks to my little vacation, I hardly even realized I was missing anything. We did try to find a traditional American feast in Firenze (Florence), but were somewhat unsuccessful. So Italian food it was! Oh well. I've really been learning to fully embrace the Italian culture, people, and food lately while I'm here instead of complaining about the things that I think are different or that I don't agree with. This includes learning to love eating only Italian food...every day.

Our vacation was fairly standard for the most part: complete with museums, shopping, sightseeing, climbing lots of stairs to see views of each city, pictures, gelato, wine, and some great Italian discoteca dancing. Of course, we personalized our trip as well by adding in some flooding waters, some football games, missed trains and flights, driving a rental car all over Italy, and of course protesting and rioting in Rome. We also met some fabulous friends along the way. Bruno and Suzie from our B&B in Firenze really made our stay there very special. They were some of the nicest and most helpful people along our journey. After Firenze and Roma, we drove up to visit the smaller towns of Siena and Orvieto. Both were definitely worth the visit and I wish we could have stayed longer. By chance, we arrived in Siena on their patron saint's day, December 1st. So when we walked into the main town square there was a parade in honor of Saint Ansanus, the protector of the city, leading to a townwide mass in the duomo. In the hilltop town of Orvieto, we experienced some incredible views of the Italian countryside and toured the underground caves and taverns built centuries ago below the city, but still in use today.

Friday's journey back home for both Eric and I was a bit of a disaster, but we eventually made it to our respective homes and can now (maybe) laugh about the situation. I had to work Saturday afternoon and all day Sunday, but was completely exhausted and slept until about noon on Monday. I think I may finally be caught up now. We'll see.

On a separate note, the holidays are fast approaching and I'm already getting tastes of how things are celebrated here in Italy! Last night we had a Christmas feast with some of Sara's side of the family. Really, you think I would have learned after 6 months here how to pace myself with the food. But of course, after about the 4th DELICIOUS course, I thought we were about done and helped myself to seconds of pasta. Ooops...there was still about 3 more courses. I didn't eat anything today until 4pm. Aside from this, there was the traditional fawning over the children. Grandparents scrambling to squeeze the little ones who only wanted to be held by their mom (mammoni is a very important word here). Then the children were promptly fed first and sent off to watch cartoons in the separate house while the adults cheerfully ate, drank, discussed very slang terms and sayings in a dialect I don't understand, and got into heated (they call it 'passionate') discussions regarding proper wines and methods of production. I love it!

As it stands, my plans are to stay here through the holidays. I'm sorry to everyone that was hoping to see me over the Christmas break, but Italy calls! I can't pass up the chance to see babbo natale visit the children and take a few ski trips in the Alps. :) But don't get me wrong...I do really miss you guys!

What would Italy be without wine...?

Ok, I must apologize for the lack of blogging lately. It's a long story, but I've been very focused and caught up in the mess of trying to plan my entire future. It has taken up the majority of the little bit of free time that I leave myself here. However, that is all another story for another day.

Our prized white truffle
For now, I wanted to update everyone on how the truffle tasting went! I know the suspense has been killing you. We had quite the feast, as typical here in Italy. 'If you're not going to do something the BEST, don't do it at all'. There were many courses to our meal as well as very expensive drinks. Although, the main event was the truffle. First it was brushed off and examined, then passed around the table for each person to individually examine and smell (as if the odor wasn't strong enough for our neighbors down the hill to pick up). Finally it was carefully sliced over everyone's egg pasta noodles, and next thing you know...it's gone. Just like that. Devoured. Verdict: I thought it was actually quite good. Better than I expected based on the smell. I was told that it is a bit of an acquired taste, but the taste is not very strong. From what I understand, you are mainly paying for the 'aroma'. Anyway, I would eat it again anytime that it was served to me, but I don't know that it's worth it to me to spend that kind of money on something. You guys know me...practical and cheap.

Fishing for wine
Meanwhile, the White Truffle festival here in Alba is still going on in full force. Sunday (the 17th) was a day full of truffles, games, parades, and of course wine. Vino flows like water through the streets here in Alba...literally. I walked right through a river of red wine on accident and almost ruined some of my new shoes. Everyone in town that was working the festival was dressed in their full renaissance garments. The town center was divided into different sections for each 'borg' to decorate and show off their traditional foods, wines, and other gift items. They also had all kinds of games and competitions such as archery, dart throwing (where the target was a hanging piece of salami), ringing a wine bottle with a fishing pole, and guessing which house a guinea pig would go into. Each of these cost €1 to participate in and guess what you win?!? A bottle of wine. Needless to say, throughout the morning/afternoon/evening you couldn't walk through the streets without seeing groups of families and friends passing around their winnings and then going back for more. I actually saw one big group hanging out by the salami darts game while their chosen competitors were winning bottle after bottle and giving them each to the mother who was using the bottom shelf her sleeping baby's stroller to stack and transport all of them home. All in all, it was a great day of being with friends and making new ones!


Next topic...Halloween! We have been very deliberate about getting people together to celebrate and dress up for Halloween (because it's not really a big thing over here), but I haven't thought once about a costume. Now I've got a party to attend on Sunday night and I have no ideas. Any help? I have to find something that is easy to make or buy here in Italy, and something that Italians would know and understand. My 'host mom' has offered me her red devil horns, tail, and cape that she used while she was in D.C. a while ago. However, that's just not quite me. I mean really, we all know I'm an angel.  :)  I would also love to hear back from you guys on what you are going as this year!! Let me know and feel free to share any ideas with me.

Truffles...everywhere!



Sunday, October 3rd marked the start of the 80th Annual Fiera Internazionale del Tartufo Bianco d'Alba (International Festival of the White Truffle of Alba). For those of you that don't know anything about what a truffle is, and it's not a candy, please go to the link and check out the info. It's basically a type of underground funghi that 'truffle hunters' use dogs to sniff out in the woods. My town, Alba, is obsessed with them. This festival is well-known throughout Europe and people have come here from everywhere. Every Sunday in October (and into November) there are events, markets, parades, shows, and all kinds of food. The town is packed to the brim with tourists from all over the world. It's quite crazy, but I'm loving hearing some more English speakers come to town. :) 
The first Sunday, I ventured out on my bicycle into town and, after navigating through an entire main street that was shut down due to the market, I ran straight into the Renaissance Parade. This was no ordinary parade. It was everywhere. Various parades through all the different streets in the main center of town hosted by different 'borgs'. There are 9 borgs here in Alba (which are like different neighborhoods or sections of town) and they each have their own names, traditions, colors, foods, etc. So the whole day was a competition between the borgs - who had the best costumes...who gave the best parade...who showed the most entertaining exhibition...and lastly, whose donkey won the race. That's right, at the end of the afternoon was the 'Palio degli Asini' (aka...the donkey race). It was one of the most ridiculous things I've seen the Italian people do. A bunch of men dressed as jockeys and riding these extremely slow and stubborn animals who proceed to stop and go the opposite direction, or better yet to jump over the hay bail barriers or buck their riders off. Yet, this is what the people of Alba live for each year. The winner of the Palio degli Asini is a very big deal.  

Most importantly...how to eat the truffle. I am not an expert on this yet, but I have just been informed that Sara and Luca have purchased a white truffle so I will finally get to taste this famed food. The festival does not give out any kind of free samples because they are so expensive, in fact you have to pay just to get into the certified 'truffle market' to make a purchase. One truffle, about the size of my fist, can cost several hundred euro. You do not wash the truffle and you keep in enclosed at all times in order to preserve the very pungent odor (because that's what you're paying for). After brushing it off, you use a very special truffle slicing contraption measured for just the right thickness of slice you desire. Generally the shavings are very thin and eaten over egg noodles, eggs, or raw meat also from this region. I think our big dinner is tomorrow night, so I'll let you guys know how it goes. I hear they are an acquired taste!  

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Humorous tidbits

1. I heard a statistic this week that the average age for Italian 'children' to move out of their parent's house is now 31 years old. I think the average marriage age is about 30 years old, so this corresponds well.

2. I weighed myself for the first time since I've been in Italy (4 months)...Verdict: I have gained 7 lbs.  :(  I was really hoping that all the walking, hiking, biking, swimming, and playing I have been doing was counteracting the Italian food. Guess not.

3. Even though technology here is sometimes very behind, in my opinion, there are still many places with high-tech, systematic processes, and I often do not know how to carry out simple functions...like paying for food. Here are two examples from last week:        

Coppa Gelato
At the Bowling Alley: As you are bowling you receive tickets (much like at Chuck E. Cheese) based on your score. I tried to simply take these to the case of prizes and tell them what I wanted. But no. First, you must enter the tickets into the counting machine to get a printed receipt. Take that to the counter, and you then must register all of your life info in order to receive a membership card. Take that card to another machine, scan the barcode, search online until you find the prize you desire, enter that code number, and get yet another receipt. Take this to the main counter and the man will go to the back room and bring you your prize. Mine was a gelato dish. :) However, they also had everything else you could think of... kitchen appliances, hair straighteners, alcohol detectors, watches, skates and skateboards, flasks, helmets/bikes, and much more.

At a Turin Discoteca: When we walked in we received a punchcard because apparently you HAVE to drink something before leaving. They stamp your card as you order drinks. Then you must take that to the cash register hub (across the room) and pay for everything. This is when we discovered in dismay that getting just a coke was going to cost 18 euros! We just wanted to dance! Anyway, they then print you another special receipt which you must present to the bouncers in order to exit. The coat check is a whole other story...

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In and around Alba


I have finally gotten to start experiencing life here in Alba, and already I've had quite a few adventures. However, I have come to realize that life in Alba doesn't really take place in Alba. It seems like even though Alba is considered the 'big city' around here, we are always going out to other towns for various things. The best kebabs are found in Bra. The best shopping is in Torino, Serravalle Scrivia, or Milan. The best discotecas are in Saluzzo or Cavallermaggiore (actually, I should say they are outside of these towns...in the middle of nowhere). Alba, of course, does offer all of these things, but we wanted the best! So I took last weekend off from going to the beach with the family and ended up visiting all of these places instead.

Friday night I ventured out with my other American friend in the Smart Car. We went first to Bra, then continued on for a much needed night of dancing at Evita near the town of Cavallermaggiore. We had a GPS system, but still had to stop and ask for directions to both places. After finally finding the first spot, we were forced to sit in the car for another 30 minutes while trying to figure out how to turn off the overheard light of this little toy car. On the way to our next stop, we mistakenly asked directions from a group of males from Palermo...bad idea for two American girls! Finally we escaped with the knowledge that we had driving about 15 minutes too far. Backtracking, we were both convinced that nothing could exist this far in the middle of absolute darkness. But finally, neon lights appeared out of nowhere. Heather mistook it for a water park. But sure enough, we had found Evita (one of the biggest discotecas in Italy). I am used to our American way of putting the nightspots in the center of town, but here it seems that only the most knowledgeable and determined people receive the prize of good night of dancing. The only dancing spot in Alba is frequented by the swarms of young high school children making an effort to grow up way too quickly. It took even longer for us to get around because Heather was driving like a grandma to avoid any accidents or getting pulled over in a borrowed Smart Car with no Italian documentation.

Saturday night was spent in Torino and I was able to experience a real western American steakhouse (Italian style). They had the peanuts on the floor and everything! Then Sunday I spent the afternoon shopping at the outlet mall in Serravalle Scrivia. The stores were definitely cheaper than in Alba, but it turns out that even on sale Prada and the other Italian designers are still out of my price range.


I had a great night of rock climbing last night in Pollenzo which definitely reminded me of being back in Nashville. I miss you guys! The only difference here was that lack of harnesses. I guess the worry over lawsuits and general safety is another American concept. But it was cool - I only fell from the top one time! Now we have decided not to go to the beach this weekend as well, so it looks like I'll have even more time to get settled. It's great to be able to build a life of my own here, and I finally have time to sleep in. We all know how much I cherish my sleep.  :) Things are good...

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Ferragosto

So I guess all of the Ferragosto celebrations were postponed until last night due to the rain over the weekend. Upon leaving our house after dinner last night, we were immediately overcome by a parade of screaming people, banging drums, and Brazilian dancers in extremely elaborate costumes. They marched throughout the streets in town for about an hour. People were everywhere. It was almost like Halloween in the sense that everyone was dressed up in all sorts of crazy costumes. The families/owners/friends of each shop, restaurant, and hotel each picked a theme and went all out. On my left I passed by a clothing shop filled with cowgirls (memories of Nashville...) while on my right I passed a restaurant serviced by Vikings. Two doors down was a hotel of Indians. There were also gladiators, peasants, maids, hawaiians, etc, etc. Performing in Piazza Vittoria was an Italian rock band singing English songs. This was a particular favorite of mine. Afterwards was the long awaited Brazilian Ipanema 'Carnival' show. Lots of dancing, shaking, and more crazy costumes. The show lasted until about 1am. Like I have said, children stay up remarkably late here. Then guess what? Tomorrow night is another celebration...the White Night! It's always something. Too bad I won't be here for that one. I'm off in the morning for Interlaken, then Lucerne. Be back on Monday night!

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Tears of Saint Lawrence

A few Italian tidbits...

There always seems to be something going on here...something to keep all the tourists entertained during the summer. In the piazzas at night there are live bands and street performances. There are markets during the day and games out on the beach. A few days ago there was a magic show set up right in the middle of our beach for the children...a "spectacolo" as they say. Sunday afternoon there were adult sack races on the beach next to ours, Bagni Columbo (the party beach).

Sunday night was the big event...Miss Spotorno 2010! Haha, this I couldn't miss. We had guests over for dinner that night, but we made a point of finishing up as soon as we heard the music start. 35 girls between the ages of 14-27 years old (mostly averaging around 16). I am still constantly amazed by the skimpyness of young girls outfits around here and how quickly they try to become adults. I am equally amazed at how this doesn't seem to phase anyone else besides me. But that's another story. Everyone was out to watch this big event which, I must say, was quite entertaining. Some of the girls took it so seriously prancing around and posing, while others just looked like it was the worst moment of their lives. The hardest part for me was having to listen to the two TERRIBLE Italian singers between each of the categories. They covered everything from Michael Jackson to Lionel Richie, Madonna, Maroon 5, Paula Abdul, and Oasis. It was painful. Needless to say, I tried to stay until the end to see the winners announced, but I was exhausted. And just when I thought it was almost over, another song would start. I couldn't take it. It was already midnight. Of course there were still small children running around everywhere. I don't think Italians know what a 'bedtime' is. Little 4 year old children are always outlasting me in this town.

Saturday night I broke down and went to see Robin Hood at the very cool open air theater here. I was sick of missing American entertainment, but of course it was in Italian. Oh well, I at least got the gist of it. One thing of interest, the movie had an intermission, which I came to realize was just an excuse for a smoke break half way through. When you start smoking at the age of 14 like most Italians do, I guess you can't make it without a cigarette long enough to see an entire movie.

One very pleasant thing here in Spotorno is the market. This happens every Tuesday morning and stretches the entire length of the main part of town. Here you can find anything and everything you can possibly desire. Today I was able to obtain a dress, two swimsuits, a very cool umbrella, and some facewash and other various soap supplies all for about 35 euro. Pretty good I'd say!

Lastly...the many holidays. Today is the holiday of the patron saint of our hometown (Alba), Saint Lawrence. Yes, every town in Italy has its own patron saint. August 10th is the day of the feast of Saint Lawrence, and it nicely coincides each year with the Perseid Meteor shower in mid-August. Hence, tonight on my rooftop I will be watching what they refer to as the 'tears of Saint Lawrence'. Looking forward to it!

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Rainy day


What do you do at the beach on a rainy day? I had never really thought about it because it seems to never rain here, but this dilemma arose on Thursday as we had our first rainy day since I’ve been living in Spotorno (over a month). I thought the Earth was going to stop turning with the way that people were reacting. On Wednesday the lifeguards told me of the weather predictions, which are remarkably accurate here compared to the US. All around me I kept hearing the word repeated… “pioverá!” I’ve come to realize that many Italian families use the beach as a sole means of keeping their children occupied during the summer months of being out of school. The mothers sit around all day sunbathing and gossiping while their children run rampant playing and stealing each others toys or simply trying to find someone else to play with (usually me). So the thought of rain here sends panic into every mother’s mind.

Morning came and, sure enough, we were forced to eat our breakfast inside at the kitchen table due to inclement weather. I think this may be only the second time that we have eaten a meal indoors since we’ve been here. Luckily the rain let up by about 10am so that we were able to go onto beach. Granted, it still looked gray, rainy, windy, and cool to me, but as long as it’s not storming they’ll send out the kids to play. Crisis averted…the weather let up and was fine for playing at the beach all afternoon. But right before 6pm, I started hearing that word being spoken again all around me. Someone nearby said “It’s already raining in Noli”. Panic breaks out again. Sara and I gathered all the toys, the two boogie boards, the five towels, the snorkel masks and flippers, the extra swimsuits, and all the shoes to bring them inside. By the time I came back out to get the kids, pandemonium had broken loose. “Piove? … Sí, piove!!” The children loved it and were running madly with delight while playing in the rain. Parents everywhere were frantically chasing their children and screaming for them to come. I, of course, decided to just sit and watch the spectacle, meanwhile thinking this all could have been avoided if the families didn’t wait until the very last minute to go inside for fear of having to play with and entertain their own children indoors.

All joking aside, there was a pretty fierce storm that night. I already had dinner plans with my friend, Heather, so I ventured out with a jacket and umbrella to the bus stop. Apparently here people do not go outdoors when it’s raining…ever. They thought I was crazy. It looked like even some of the businesses had decided to close, although it was still just a drizzle at this point. I made it to Noli and had a lovely dinner of pizza, beer, and crepes for dessert. Yumm! The storm had passed by the time we finished so it was really no problem at all. And then came one of my favorite parts:

Heather had to go home and I had about 30 or 40 minutes before my bus was coming. To walk home from Noli takes about 30 minutes, so I figured I’d just wait and take the 5 minute bus ride. It was in this moment that I realized how close God wants to keep me to Him. It has been very hard for me over the past month to stay ‘connected’. There is no church here for me to attend and I haven’t met anyone yet with my same beliefs. My schedule is crazy, so my prayer and Bible reading times have been sparse and sporadic. But God still uses moments like this when he works everything together for me to be forced to be alone with Him. While waiting for the bus, I started walking along the coastline. I then took a detour off onto a rocky pier that jetted out into the sea. While sitting here, there was nothing but darkness around me and the sound of the waves crashing against the rocks. Best of all, God gave me an incredible lightning storm off in the distance over the water. I watched in awe. I could feel his arms of love wrapping around me and hear Him repeating His command in Psalms 46:10… 
“Be still and know that I am God.” It’s hard for me to be still here. Very hard. Thankfully God is with me in Italy just as He was in Nashville and He knows my needs better than I do.
Of course after all of this, I then missed my bus and had to walk home anyway. But all in all, it was a good night!

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Afternoon siesta


Ok, I just got finished writing a giant update and then my internet closed before I could save and post. So this will have to be much shorter. Everyone here vacates the beach in the afternoons because the sun is too hot, so I get a few hours off as well. The parks are full of people napping on benches in the shade and all of the shops close down from about 1p-4p. I usually spend my time taking a quick nap or getting things done, but today I thought I'd send you guys a quick update...and paint my toenails. :)

Life here in Liguria is finally beginning to become routine. The kids are in the groove of playing at the beach with other children and the girls do their homework in the afternoons. Claudio is finally sleeping a little longer so he's not as cranky during the days. And I was able to get him to use the toilet like a grown up a few days after we arrived here, so we've been working on trying to potty train him some! 

My heat rash has gotten better each day and my skin is finally healing. I have developed ways to fight the heat such as keeping a cold wet towel with me in my room. I also now know which doors and windows to keep open so that the air circulates through my upstairs room. Italians don't really use air conditioning so that's taken some getting used to for me as I'm very warm natured anyway. 

I have learned my way around Spotorno (which didn't take long) and I've also had the opportunities to explore neighboring towns like Savona, Bergeggi, Noli, Finale, and Allasio with my friends. They are all unique and beautiful in their own ways...and so full of history. There are still walls, gates, streets, and castles here that were built in the 900's. Via Aurelia is an amazing and beautiful drive that winds around the cliffs along the coastline all through Liguria. I still can't get over the views here! 

Well, I'm looking forward to another lovely weekend here with more exploring to do. Then before you know it, I've got my first visitor coming to see me next weekend and go to Cinque Terre. Can't wait! 

Alright, time to go back to the beach! 

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Home away from home away from home

Saturday night they sent out thousands of floating luminaries into the sea

We made it to Spotorno on Thursday afternoon. I must say, it is quite beautiful here. Sometimes I don’t even know what to think. The beach itself is a very narrow strip of sand along the water’s edge (at least compared to the South Carolina beaches I’m used to) with mountains close in directly behind us. For this reason, the entire Ligurian coastline links small village to small village…one right after another. Real estate is out of control here because literally all of Italy vacations at the beach in the summertime. The cities empty (except for tourists) and the coasts overflow. But somehow, I managed to be living in one of the few houses that sits right on the beach. It was built in the 1930’s and just recently renovated to keep the same feel. I live on the top level, of three, with a rooftop terrace that overlooks the coast in all directions.

Just off the coast sits little Bergeggi Island, a preserved natural habitat for wildlife that is completely isolated from human contact. You'll be able to see it in some of my pictures. It is truly beautiful up close as you can always see birds soaring all around…almost like you’re approaching Jurassic Park. J Makes me want to get closer! Right now, though, the birds have come to me as I’m sitting on the terrace writing this. And they are very loud.

Since I am now in a different region, the food is quite different as well. Their specialties in Liguria are mainly pesto and seafood. I have both and they are both delicious!! I think I’ve probably had at least 7-10 different kinds of fish, both raw and cooked, since Thursday. For the housewarming party last night, Luca’s seven Dutch friends came into town and cooked for the entire evening. They prepared eleven courses…some at home in the Netherlands, and the rest beginning at 10am on Saturday and finishing after midnight. Ridiculous.

I can already see that God has blessed me in so many ways by shoving me into this experience. It has been eye opening and already life changing. But there are still so many things to learn. He has taught me about humility and patience in very deep ways. And of course, loving others. This has to be done mostly through my actions here because it’s hard for me to communicate with words. But God is good and He is with me, even here.

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Cin cin!

I'm slowly getting to experience more and more of the life and culture of Italy. My friends and family here have graciously been trying to ease me into it. I was able to meet my first American friend for pizza on Friday night, and the pizzeria was definitely in a castle on the top of a hillside. Apparently, according to Luca, this region just has too many castles that they don't know what to do with them all. So why not turn them into pizzerias?!

Saturday night I went out on the town (here in Alba) to watch the USA v England match with some new friends. I love how the World Cup brings so many people together. The party was hosted by a few English people at their apartment. There were also several other Americans there, one Russian guy, and a girl from Bulgaria. I must admit, it was quite nice to get to spend some time with people that can understand me. I think I've taken that for granted all these years...

Sunday night, I took my first trip out of Alba with some Italian friends to Turin. We only went for the evening, but I would like to spend more time there later on. It seems to be a very interesting city with a lot of history and 'legends' if you will. Also, it is a world renowned center for occult, black magic, and satanism. My friends called it the Detroit of Italy because it has a lot of car manufacturers, however, I do not think that is a fair comparison. I found the city to be beautiful and full of character.

At dinner, we took aperitifs (a trend that has apparently swept across Italy), then had antipasta, our main course, dessert, and caffe (digestifs). The Piemonte region is famous for their meat and wine, so of course I've partaken plenty. I've tasted just about every kind of raw meat that you can eat...veal, beef, ham, fish/anchovies, buffalo tongue, salami, etc. We also had pigs ankle and octopus at this particular dinner. Yes, some of it has been strange to me, but overall the food is exceptionally delicious and fresh. Living in this new place has truly opened my eyes to how processed everything we eat in America is. But that's a whole other topic for another day.  For now, buona notte...

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Lori
Alba, Piedmont, Italy
My life has taken some interesting turns lately, forcing me out of my comfort zone and allowing me the opportunity to follow where I think God is leading me next. I know that I'm not alone when I say that I fear the unknown, but I wouldn't have it any other way! Let's see what happens next...
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